Pearl Oyster Bar

The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!

Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.

Alice's Tea Cup

Is the constant rain getting you down? Shake the rain off your umbrella and walk down a couple steps to the warm and inviting Alice's Tea Cup. Pour yourself a pot of exotic vanilla-scented Mauritius tea or Red Fruits Indian tea flavored with strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cherry. Then you'll be ready for a flaky and buttery fresh-baked scone served with raspberry jam and clotted cream (I especially appreciate the strawberry scones). Or if you'd like something savory, bite into a mustardy tuna salad sandwich. If you bring friends under the age of two, they will appreciate the daily homemade pureed baby food. If you'd like to postpone your reentry into the puddle that passes for Manhattan these days, take a moment to admire all of the tea-oriented gifts up front (lovely teapots and toiletries like "Body Tea").

Alice's Tea Cup: 102 West 73rd St., (212) 799-3006.

How Much Do I Love NYC?

Let me count the calories...

Finally, Good Pizza In Park Slope!

Last night my companion and I decided to take a walk down 5th Ave. in Brooklyn. We were hungry for something Italian, but we didn't want to pull out all the stops at Al Di La. I made a mental list of the casual dining options in the area and realized that I would probably have to settle for a sandwich. However, as we began to walk in the direction of Press 195, I noticed a large and bustling restaurant on the right side of the street. Drawing closer, I saw a counter overflowing with large pizza pies and a sign that said "La Villa".

Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!

La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.

How To Prevent A Food Fight

Apparently, criminal charges may be filed against a group of food-hurling students. The news reports do not specify which foods were being thrown, but I imagine that they weren't particularly tasty. However, a new approach to school food could provide a solution to the problem of projectile pizza.

A Delightful Weekday Breakfast

I decided to prolong the relaxation of my vacation with a leisurely breakfast at 'ino. Their breakfast menu offers several variations on the theme of eggs and bread: truffled egg toast, bruschetta topped with scrambled eggs and either asparagus or pancetta, and my personal favorite: egg and fontina with caramelized onions on grilled ciabatta from Blue Ribbon Bakery. A glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice, a strong latte and a glance at the paper completed my transition back into the rhythms of NYC.

'ino: 21 Bedford St., (212) 989-5769

A Note From The Road

For those of you who feel that sweets are a philosophy, here is an exhibit I have just attended that may be of interest to you. (After three weeks of Canadian ice wine, Saskatoon berries and wild Pacific salmon, I shall fly back to New York on Sunday.)